Serves: 8 first-course servings; 6 main-course servings
Prepare Risotto Milanese, below, with or without the saffron. Soak
1/4 cup dried porcini mushroomsin hot water for 20 minutes. Drain, reserving the liquid. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add 8 ounces fresh mushrooms, sliced; 2 shallots, minced; and the porcini; cook until lightly browned. Add the mushroom soaking liquid and boil it down to nothing. Then add 1/4 cup dry white wine and boil it down to nothing. Fold the mushrooms into the risotto for the last 10 minutes of cooking. Finish as directed.
RISOTTO MILANESE: 8 first-course servings; 6 main-course servings.
The most famous of the numerous Italian risottos, this dish is always flavored with saffron. Use this basic technique to create a variety of risottos using leftover meats or seafood, small quantities of sauces, sausage, vegetables, or even fruits.Combine and let stand for 10 minutes:
3 generous pinches of saffron threadsMelt in a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat:
1 cup hot chicken stock
3 tablespoons butterStir in:
1 medium onion, mincedCook over low heat until soft and clear. Meanwhile, simmer over medium heat:
9 cups chicken stockIncrease the heat under the onions to medium and stir in:
1 pound Italian rice or American medium-grain riceCook, stirring often, until the rice is chalky in appearance, about 5 minutes. Add:
1/2 cup dry white wineStir until absorbed. Add the saffron mixture and simmer, uncovered, stirring often, until absorbed. Add the chicken stock, 1 cup at a time, and simmer and stir continuously until absorbed. (If desired, when half of the stock has been used and the rice is still quite firm, the risotto can be removed from the heat and refrigerated, covered, for up to 2 days. To finish the risotto, reheat and continue.) Add the remaining stock, 1 cup at a time, until the rice is tender but still has some "bite." It should be creamy and not stiff. Foldin:
1 to 1 1/2 cups grated Parmesan cheeseSeason with:
Salt and ground black pepper to tasteLet rest for a few minutes, then serve in warmed soup dishes. If desired, serve with:
Grated Parmesan cheese
Morroccan-Style Vegetable StewServes: 6 servings
Serve this meatless dish over a bed of warm couscous.
Heat in a large Dutch oven:
2 tablespoons butter or olive oilAdd and cook over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes:2 medium onions, choppedStir in:1 1/2 cups Chicken Broth, 42, or Vegetable Broth, 38Simmer, stirring often, over medium-low heat until the onions are very tender, about 20 minutes.Meanwhile, mix in a large bowl:1 teaspoon ground cuminStir in:
3/4 teaspoon chili powder
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated or ground nutmeg
Pinch of ground cloves1 small butternut squash (1 1/2 pounds), peeled, halved, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch cubesAdd the squash mixture to the onions along with:
1 large Idaho potato, peeled, halved, and cut into 3/4-inch pieces3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch slicesBring to a simmer over medium heat, then reduce the heat to medium-low. Cover first with a sheet of aluminum foil placed directly on the surface of the vegetables, then with the lid. Simmer gently until the vegetables are completely tender, about 25 minutes.Stir in:
1/4 cup raisins
5 cloves garlic, minced1 or 2 medium zucchini, halved lengthwise, cut into 1/3-inch slicesSimmer, covered, until the zucchini is tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in:
One 15-ounce can chickpeas, rinsed and drained
1/3 cup halved pitted Kalamata or Nicoise olives
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley or cilantro
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Several drops of hot red pepper sauce
MoussakaServes: 8 to 10
This light and spicy version of the classic Greek eggplant casserole was created by Aglaia Kremezi, author of Mediterranean Hot. Instead of butter and milk, Aglaia uses olive oil and yogurt in her bechamel sauce.Salt, place in a colander, and let drain at least 30 minutes:
2 large eggplants (about 1 1/2 pounds each), sliced lengthwise into 1/4-inch slicesMeanwhile, heat in a deep, heavy skillet over medium-high heat:1 inch olive oilFry briefly in the oil, 2 to 3 minutes, without letting them cook through:1 pound potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch slicesRemove to paper towels with a slotted spoon to drain. Layer the potatoes in a lightly oiled 9 x 13-inch baking dish at least 2 1/2 inches deep (or an equivalent round or oval dish). Set aside.In the same frying oil, cook over medium-high heat:3 large green bell peppers, seeded, quartered lengthwise, and cut into 1-inch piecesCook, stirring often, until they begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Remove to paper towels with a slotted spoon to drain. Reserve the frying oil. Measure out 1/3 cup of the oil and place in a medium to large skillet over medium heat. Add and saute, stirring often, until no longer red, about 10 minutes:1 pound ground lean lambAdd:1 1/2 cups chopped onionContinue to saute, stirring often, for another 10 minutes or until the onions become translucent. Add:1/2 to 1 1/2 teaspoons ground red pepperLower the heat and simmer for about 15 minutes. Season with:
1/3 cup red wine
1/2 cup currants
1 pound ripe tomatoes, finely chopped, or 2 1/2 cups canned chopped tomatoes with their juiceSalt to tasteRemove from the heat and set aside. The mixture should be quite spicy. Preheat the broiler. Rinse and dry the eggplant slices with paper towels and place them on a baking sheet. Brush both sides with some of the reserved oil, and broil them until golden on both sides, about 3 minutes per side. Cool and discard the remaining frying oil. Preheat the oven to 400° F. Arrange the eggplant slices over the potatoes; it doesn't matter if they overlap. Spoon the lamb and tomato sauce over the eggplant and layer with the fried peppers. Pour over: Yogurt and Olive Oil Bechamel
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 to 2 pinches freshly grated nutmeg
1/2 to 1 teaspoon Ras el Hanout, 1062 (optional)
Bake for about 1 hour, until the top starts to color and the moussaka is bubbly. Let the moussaka sit for 15 minutes before serving, or let cool completely, refrigerate, and reheat just before serving. To reheat, place in a preheated 400 °F oven for 20 to 30 minutes, until bubbly.
Potato CroquettesServes: 4 servings
A fine use for leftover mashed potatoes, croquettes also can be made with 3 cups Mashed Potatoes with Cabbage and Scallions, 409.
Beat:
1 large egg into 2 cups Mashed Potatoes, 408Add any of the following for flavor, if desired:1/2 cup sauteed diced onions or sliced mushrooms (optional)Divide into 8 portions and shape into small cakes. Dust lightly with:
5 scallions, thinly sliced (optional)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme, parsley, marjoram, or chives (optional)All-purpose flourDip in:1 large egg, lightly beatenThen in:1 cup fresh breadcrumbs or 1/2 cup sesame seedsHeat in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat:1 to 2 tablespoons melted butter, olive oil, or vegetable oilAdd the croquettes and fry, until nicely browned, about 5 minutes each side. Drain on paper towels. Serve hot.
Scalloped PotatoesServes: 4 to 6
Preheat the oven to 350° F. Butter a 2-quart gratin dish.
Drop into a pot of boiling water for 5 minutes, then drain, rinse with cool water, and pat dry:
3 pounds Yellow Finn or all-purpose potatoes, peeled and sliced into 1/8-inch-thick roundsLayer a third of the potatoes in the gratin dish, followed by:Salt and pepperRepeat the steps twice, then pour over:
1/3 cup grated sharp Cheddar or Gruyere cheese (optional)
2 tablespoons finely diced onion
1 teaspoon flour2 cups milk or light cream, warmedCover with foil and bake for 45 minutes. Uncover and continue to bake until the potatoes are tender, most of the liquid is absorbed, and the top is golden brown, 15 to 30 minutes.
Warm Mashed Potato SaladServes: 6 servings
Place in a large saucepan:
6 large baking potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunksAdd cold salted water just to cover. Bring to a boil and cook the potatoes until tender, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk together in a small bowl:1/2 cup sour cream or yogurtGradually whisk in to emulsify the vinaigrette:
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 1/2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary, or scant 1/2 teaspoon dried
Salt and ground black pepper to taste1/2 cup olive oilDrain the potatoes thoroughly in a colander, return to the pan, and steam over medium heat, shaking the pan, until any excess liquid is evaporated, about 30 seconds. Put the potatoes through a ricer or mash with a potato masher while still hot.Stir half the vinaigrette into the potatoes along with:8 slender scallions, very thinly slicedSpoon the potatoes on a platter, make a lengthwise valley down the center, and fill the valley with the remaining vinaigrette. Garnish the whole platter with:
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley
Salt and ground black pepper to tasteMinced fresh parsleyServe warm or at room temperature.
Yogurt and Olive Oil BechamelServes: About 3 cups
This is a contemporary version of classic bechamel from gifted Greek cook Aglaia Kremezi.
Whisk together in a saucepan over medium heat:
4 tablespoons olive oilCook, whisking, for about 1 minute until the mixture starts to froth. Remove from the heat, whisk for a couple of minutes, then pour in, whisking constantly:
4 tablespoons all-purpose flour2 cups cold whole milkWhisk in:1 cup whole-milk yogurtSet over the heat and, whisking, bring to a boil to thicken. The mixture may look curdled, but it will smooth out once it has boiled and thickened. Stir in:2/3 cup grated Gruyere cheese
Sea salt to taste
Pinch of ground black or white pepper